For immediate appeal, this is my preferred go-to wine. It’s gorgeous bright garnet, full of intense flavours – savoury and fruit-driven, as in black cherries. strawberries and fruit compote, then up comes woodsmoke, forest floor and garrigue plus cedary oak with a slight bitter green walnut character. The fuller-bodied palate is bolstered by plentiful tannins yet reined in by refreshing acidity. Screw cap.

This wine crackles along in fine style. It has a mineral aspect and a ripple of grainy tannin and an excellent push of fruit and spice through the finish. It tastes of strawberries and black cherries, Campari-like herbs and woodsmoke, a peppercorn character buried within. It’s firm and serious and yet it has an easy-going complexity. Indeed it’s one of those ‘makes complexity look easy’ wines. It’s good for drinking now but it will improve over the coming years.

A deep, vibrant crimson purple. Paringa Estate Pinot is never short on colour or flavour and from the outset, the ’22 is all business with scents that work both the earthy, herbal side of the grape and the pure fruited. Ripe, poised, balanced and long, it’s one serious Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir. Offers a generous but balanced mouthful, one that is texturally strong across the middle palate with a core of black cherry, red plum and loganberry fruits, tomato bush and leaf, vanilla and a touch of savoury intrigue against a background of fine, firm tannins. Can be enjoyed now or later – the best of both Pinot worlds.